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Use a screw driver and damp rag to clean glue out of the mortise that is created in the mallet head. I found it easier to clamp the glue-up to my work bench surface as it helped to stabilize the pieces and avoid a lot of sliding around. The angle is subtle, so be sure you’re positioning the boards correctly.
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Position the middle boards to create the tapered mortise. Glue up the mallet headĪpply glue to all mating surfaces and clamp the mallet head together. When using a stop block in this way, on the offcut side of the blade, be sure to allow the blade to come to a complete stop before lifting the saw. Return the saw to 90-degrees, set a stop block, and cut a 3” length off each end of board. Set your miter saw (or miter gauge on a table saw) to a 2-degree angle and cut each end of the board. To achieve this safely, start with a board that is at least ¾” x 3” x 14”. Cut the middle piecesĮach piece will be ¾” x 3” x 3”, with one end of each piece cut at a 2 degree angle. Cut outside facesĬut the left and right faces first, each to a size of ¾” x 3” x 7”. This is an easy way to construct a mortise and tenon joint that doesn’t require a super thick piece of wood, and allows the joint to be constructed without the heavy chisel work of traditional mortise and tenon joinery. The two center pieces leave the center open to form a tapered mortise, allowing the handle to be locked into position.
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The two outside pieces are cut to the full height and length of the mallet head. The head is glued up from four pieces of wood.
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This is a non-intimidating way to explore a useful joint. The joinery on this project involves a semi-traditional wedged tenon joint, with a slight modification that makes the mortise work much simpler. I won’t say that this one is perfect, as I reserve the right to continue the evolution of the design, but for now I am quite pleased with this design and I find that it works extremely well for a variety of tasks. I have made a half dozen or so joiner’s mallets over the years, each time attempting to improve upon my previous attempt, and also striving to achieve the “perfect mallet”. I use one for finesse work such as tapping chisels and carving tools, as well as more blunt force actions like banging a carcase together or forcing a panel flat during glue-up. One of the most frequently used tools in my shop is a joiner’s mallet.